Mount Elbrus Climb – Complete Guide To Europe’s Highest Summit

Mount Elbrus is considered the highest mountain on the European continent. The mountain is part of the Caucasus range and is situated on the southwestern side of Russia.

Elbrus consists of two summits, both of which are dormant volcanoes. At 5,642 metres (18,510 ft), the West Summit is the highest, whilst the East Summit stands at 5,621 meters (18,442 ft).

Elbrus was successfully summited via the East summit in 1829, by Khillar Khachirov. In 1874 an English expedition led by F. Crauford Grove reached the West summit. Since then Elbrus has been climbed by 1000s of mountaineers, including some of the world’s best climbers who bag the mountain as part of their Seven Summits bid.

There are two main approaches to climb Elbrus - the South and North side routes. Elbrus has several other routes, but these only get a few ascents every year.

The most popular route on Mount Elbrus is via the south side. If you have limited high altitude mountaineering experience, then this route is for you!

It is the easiest, safest and fastest way to climb Elbrus.

The south side approach from the Azau village uses a unique cable car system to ferry climbers up to 12,500 feet (3,658 m). 

From here, you will see the Barrels (bochki). These are steel containers where you will sleep and cook meals. There are three barrel sections on the south side of Elbrus

To get to Mount Elbrus you will need to first fly into Moscow. You will need to get a visa to enter Russia; this can be a lengthy process so please make sure you apply early.

From Moscow you will need to catch an internal flight to Mineralnye Vody Airport or Nalchik Airport. There are also flights from Istanbul to Nalchik. If you are joining an organised tour it is likely that all transport and accommodation before and after the climb will be arranged for you.

If you are planning to climb Elbrus independently or join a group once at the base of the mountain then the information below will be helpful.

There are three towns near Mount Elbrus: 

• Terskol: This is the largest town near the mountain, and the best spot to stay in our opinion. The town has a number of accommodation options, including hotels, hostels. homestays and camping facilities (if you are on a tight budget). We recommend the Hotel Elbrusia. You can leave some of your valuables / non-climbing gear at your hotel in safe lock-up for collection when you return from your climb.
• Cheget: This town is furthest from Elbrus but closest to Cheget mountain (3,601m), which most climbers use for an acclimatisation hike before Elbrus.
• Azau: This is the closest town to Elbrus and the location of the cable car that will take you up to Mir Station. Azau is about a 5 min drive from Terskol  

From Mineralnye Vody Airport or Nalchik you will need to get a minibus to one of the small towns near Elbrus - Terskol, Cheget or Azau. The journey from Nalchick to Terskol takes about 1.5 hours and costs about $5 in a minibus or $10 in a taxi. The journey from Mineralnye Vody Airport to Terskol takes about 3 hours and costs more.

Please note: It is best to bring Russian rubles in cash with you to Elbrus. There is only one ATM in Terskol and it is often out of cash. Some hotels will exchange US dollars or Euros, but they will not give a favourable rate. When you arrive in Terskol your hotel or hostel will require you to complete registration papers and pay a small registration fee ~$5 - this is a government requirement for all foreigners.

Before you climb Mount Elbrus it is imperative that you spend a few days acclimatising. You can do some of this acclimatisation on Mount Elbrus itself, but we recommend undertaking a hike or two before getting the cable car up to Mir Station. 

The most popular acclimatisation hikes are on Cheget Mountain and to the Observatory / Terskol Peak (3127m). Both have well marked walking paths and are relatively easy hikes. Just make sure you don't push yourself too hard! These hikes are meant to help you acclimatise to the altitude, so slowly does it! 

The views of Elbrus from both peaks is very impressive!

Once on the mountain itself, there are few options for acclimatisation. One of them is a hike to and back from the Pastokov Rocks (4680m) from the barrels - this adds a day to the climb but is well worth it! A conservative approach to climbing Mount Elbrus takes fives days of acclimatisation before attempting a summit bid.

Read our guide to altitude sickness and acclimatisation.

From Terskol we recommend getting a taxi to Azau where you can get the cable car to Mir Station. There are two cable car options - the old red option (this takes you direct to Mir and is cheaper) or the white option (this is a newer car and more expensive. It also goes via Krugozor station where you have to change cars to get to Mir). 

The cars run from 09:00am to 16:00pm (16:30 is the last car down). This is important to remember as missing the last car after descending from the summit will mean staying another night at the barrels. 

From Mir you take a one-person chairlift to Garabashi. Please note that you cannot take a pack that is heavier than 10kg on the chairlift! It is possible to walk from Mir to Garabashi (it's about 300m and takes an hour), but most people don't as it can tire one out. It is also possible to walk from Azau to Garabashi, but this will take around 4-6 hours and is pretty tiring!

Pro tip: Make sure that you keep your ticket safe as you will need it to descend. We also recommend leaving Terskol early so you can get on one of the first cable cars up the mountain. This will ensure that you get the best picks of accommodation further up the mountain.  

The main climbing season is from June through early September, with July being the busiest month.

The permanent snow line is around 3350m with temperatures rarely rising above freezing at night.

The best time to ski Mount Elbrus is in June, when there is more snow. This however makes climbing more challenging!

Afternoon clouds and thunderstorms are common during summer season.

Due to its hight, Mount Elbrus has dynamic weather, making it hard to predict weather conditions. Prepare for very cold temperatures and high winds above 4,000 meters.

From the south side, the ascent of Mount Elbrus is not technically difficult. Climbers only need basic experience in using crampons and ice axes to be well-prepared.

However, in serious weather the climb can be quite hazardous. 

Also, despite being technically easy, the lack of high mountain camps on Elbrus (all of them are quite close to each other) causes the elevation gain to be one of the most demanding of the seven summits. Climbers need to ascent as much as 1,900 meters of altitude for the summit push.

The most technically challenging part of the climb is just above the Pastukhov rocks and the saddle between the two summits. The slopes in both these spots are relatively steep and clipping into a fixed rope is highly recommend.

The north side is more challenging as the elevation gain is greater (base camp on the north side sits at around 8,200 meters) and snow slopes are steeper, which means rope work and experience with crampons and ice axes are required.

There are no cable cars, chairlifts or Snowcats on the North side. So one needs to carry all their gear up the mountain. 

Besides the technical challenge of climbing Elbrus, the logistics of the climb, if you are not using a tour operator, can be challenging. The visa process via Russian authorities can be lengthy. Also the ethnic conflicts in the area can cause problems.

To successfully climb mount Elbrus a good level of aerobic fitness and leg strength is required. 

Climbing Elbrus takes roughly a week, including acclimatisation hikes. Summit day is a lengthy one with over 1,900 meters of altitude to be gained, taking about 12-14 hours (descent included).

The climb is also cold, meaning you will lose energy quickly. It is advised to set yourself a training schedule that includes aerobic exercise and long hikes.

Even someone in very good physical shape can fail to summit Mount Elbrus.

You should not be overconfident in your own abilities, because there is the factor of dealing with the altitude that will determine whether you summit or not.

Climbers who are overconfident tend to rush up the mountain and as a result they fail in their attempt to summit.

Here are a few things to implement in your training schedule.

Develop your endurance and stamina

The first thing to do is to make sure you have built enough endurance and stamina before traveling to Russia. Undertaking practice climbs and hikes are the best options, but if you don’t have hills or mountains to climb in your home country, running is a decent alternative. Build a routine, but don’t push yourself over the limit as you will want to avoid injuries.

Get comfortable carrying weight

The ideal way to train is carrying a pack and going uphill and downhill, since this simulates what you will be doing on Mount Elbrus. Start with a light pack and gradually increase the weight as you get closer to the climb. Never run with a pack on and use hiking boots if you can.

Prepare yourself mentally

At some point in your Mount Elbrus climb you will likely find yourself in a difficult situation that is way out of your comfort zone. Cold weather, strong winds and a long summit day will not only be a physical challenge. Make sure that you prepare yourself mentally as well.

Eat well

What you eat during your training weeks and climb should not be underestimated. A diet rich of carbs is as important as your training. It might even be a good idea to consult a professional nutritionist.  

Strength training

Training with weights is an important part of your training routine as this improves anaerobic metabolism and feeds much of muscular work you will do on Elbrus. Developing your back and shoulder muscles are necessary to comfortably carry your backpack during the climb, while calve muscles and hamstrings are needed to climb uphill and descend the snowy slopes.

Water

Consume lots of water during your training sessions. Not only does your body need fluids, but it is the best way to get used to hydrating a lot. When you climb in cold conditions, you might not feel thirsty,  but it is vital to drink lots of water. Drinking a lot of water helps in getting acclimatised to the high altitude and avoiding dehydration.

Specific skills

Mount Elbrus may well be a basic alpine climb, but it still requires some specific skills including using an ice axe and crampons. Since the slopes are quite steep on Mount Elbrus, being familiar with the ice axe arrest technique is recommended. You can learn these skills on smaller snow-covered peaks in your region or during a winter mountaineering course where you develop / fine tune your skills.

The cost to climb Mount Elbrus ranges depending on how you tackle the mountain. Here are three rough estimates:

Budget Independent Climb

It is possible to climb Mount Elbrus independently. The cost (excl. international and domestic flights) could be as low as $500 pp, but this would be super budget. You will need to budget for your transfers to and from Nalchik, accommodation in Terskol pre and post the climb, cable car journeys, food and water on the mountain and accommodation stays on the mountain.

Climbing with a Local Guide

Their are a number of good Russian guiding organisations who charge about $1000 pp for an Elbrus climb. This often covers accomodation pre and post your climb, all logistics and expenses on the mountain, and a professional guide. Quality can however vary.

Climbing with a Western Operator

There are a number of Western operators who offer Mount Elbrus. Prices range from $2000 to $5000 pp. The service quality tends to be excellent, with professional guides on the expedition. The cost generally includes everything from Moscow and back. 

Like on most mountains, you need a permit to climb Elbrus. But unlike the high cost of a climbing permit on Aconcagua (~$1000) or Kilimanjaro (~$1000), Elbrus only costs $25.