Best Belay Device – Expert Review

5/5 Overall Rating

The quality and versatility of the Petzl Grigri 2 have made it one of the best belay devices of the year and a popular choice amongst climbers. Its ability to secure up to 8.9-11mm ropes, for example, is just one rare versatile quality that it has to offer.

Some people struggle with breaking while rappelling – they overshoot targets, strain their hands or arms or underestimate tricky slopes. For such issues, the Grigri 2's high-quality is just what they need. Its well-placed cam pinches and pivots rope to increase braking action, while the dependable braking technology catches falls amazingly.

It is also made of stainless steel, which means its friction plate lasts for ages. Another problem people face with belay/rappel devices is slipping due to smaller sweet spots, or even ripped ropes (from too much friction).

The Petzl Grigri 2’s large sweet spot generates smooth lowering, and the progressive descent control system is one of a kind.

5/5 Overall Rating

The figure-8 design is a common rappelling descender design. It gets the job done on quick rappels and has many uses in the recreational world (and it’s no secret how much climbers like their gear with multiple uses).

The Epic Peak Figure 8 contains a whopping 40kN strength, meaning it is capable of handling over 4,000kg of weight.

It is specifically designed for climbing and rappelling, but people have also used it to hold up yoga hammocks and aerial silks and are extremely impressed with how well the Epic Peak Rescue Figure 8 holds. Due to its sturdy design, the Epic Peak Figure 8 provides efficient and smooth rappelling as it can dissipate heat from friction more easily.

If you frequently rappel and don’t already own a figure 8, go ahead and grab one of these models because you’re more than likely to use it eventually (and maybe not just for rappelling).

5/5 Overall Rating

The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a device we commend for being able to do it all. This well-rounded belay device doubles as a rappel device, and its capacity makes it our best bet for multi-pitch climbing. The ATC-Guide offers smooth handling while you climb with its lightweight and easy-to-use construction.

There are even multiple friction modes – the “slow” side is great for beginners as it generates lots of friction and offers extra caution, while the “fast” side works great for more experienced climbers – and high-friction grooves provide awesome hold and stopping power.

The device’s machined window makes it lighter than the original ATC-Guide belay device and its durable, hot-forged aluminium construction will last you ages. It can also handle a variety of rope sizes. Users find rappelling easy with this device, and with all its perks it doesn’t even break the bank!

5/5 Overall Rating

This rappel device is roughly $7 less than the ATC-Guide but still shares many of the same features. It lacks a guide mode and, like the ATC-Guide, assisted braking. But in the gym, where everything is controlled and nothing is bigger than a single pitch, it’s all you need. In fact, it’s the device that most gyms commonly rent out.

The TC XP is great to learn on because of this, and climbers say it helps build good habits. It, too, has multiple friction modes and high-friction grooves that provide 3 times better hold and stopping power than normal friction mode, and it can also feed rope between 7.7mm and 11mm in diameter. It should be noted that it is much smoother at rappelling than it is belaying.

Overall, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is almost identical to the ATC-Guide in properties, only it lacks an extra loop for guide mode and is 25% cheaper (give or take).