Climbing Cotopaxi – 11 Expert Tips For An Epic Summit

Summiting Cotopaxi (11 FAQs)

What Routes Can You Take?

Reaching the Cotopaxi summit takes two days to complete. On day one, all climbers will make their way along one route to the Jose Rivas Refuge (4,864m) which you will be able to see in the distance from the parking lot (4,500m). This takes about 1 hour and you’ll be resting here until the early hours of the morning for your summit climb.

The Jose Rivas Refuge is a hostel type accommodation which sleeps 86 people in bunk beds. It is well equipped with 2 kitchens, lockers, a bar, running water and electricity. 

Initially there were two routes from the refuge to Cotopaxi summit and typically your guide would choose the best route on the day according to safety.  Due to icefall dangers, the original Yanasacha Route  was closed in 2013.

Expeditions now take the North Route and, very rarely, the Rompe Corazones Route (aka ‘Heartbreaker’ route). 

When Is The Best Time To Climb Cotopaxi?

Thanks to the great climate conditions in the Cotopaxi area, climbing to the summit can be done at any time of the year. The best months to climb and avoid the wind is during December and January. Otherwise, August to September are also good months to climb but expect to have a lot of wind.

What Is The Typical Itinerary For Climbing Cotopaxi?

A typical Cotopaxi climb takes two days to complete. You begin by heading to the refuge the afternoon before your climb. Once you have settled in you’ll have lessons at a nearby glacier on how to put on your crampons and different ice-axe techniques.

After training, you can grab something to eat and catch a few hours of sleep before your 1am start to the summit. This may depend on your experience level and how long it will take you to summit. The idea is to reach the summit at sunrise and begin your descent before the snow becomes unstable during the daytime. It should take around 5 to 8 hours to reach the summit depending on your pace. 

It is strenuous and can get very daunting at times when negotiating deep crevice’s and climbing on thick snow and ice. Some points require you to climb front pointing, meaning you will be climbing using the front spikes on your crampons.

Reaching the summit is exhilarating. Staring down into the deep crater of Cotopaxi volcano and panoramic views of Ecuador’s major peaks is a fantastic reward for a difficult climb. Your descent should take about 3 to 4 hours.

How Difficult Is Climbing Cotopaxi?

Climbing Cotopaxi is possible even with little or no technical mountaineering experience. However, the climb takes 6 hours, is done at high altitude, and you will need to cross huge, deep crevice’s and climb semi-vertical glaciers using special alpine gear. You need strength, stamina and be properly acclimatised.

Reaching the summit of Cotopaxi only has a 72% success rate due to the treacherous sections of the climb and most climbers battle with the high altitude. If you truly want to climb Cotopaxi and reach the summit, then you need to take it seriously and prepare properly. 

Can It Be Done Without A Guide?

You will not be able to climb Cotopaxi without hiring a good, reliable and experienced guide. I highly recommend that you hire a guide who is certified by ASEGUIM (Asociación Ecuatoriana de Guías de Montaña).

Deglaciation is a real concern on the routes and an experienced guide is essential to navigating these sections safely. One guide is only allowed to take two climbers.

How Much Does Climbing Cotopaxi Cost?

Climb Only Packages

• There are a variety of tour companies to book a Cotopaxi climb. They will include most, if not all of the below costs and arrange everything on your behalf. They also have experienced and reliable mountain guides. Packages cost around $450 for 1 person and $300 per person for 2 climbers or more.

Accommodation (Jose Rivas Refuge)

• Bunk bed: $25
• Dinner, bed and breakfast: $35
• Camping: $10
• Food can be quite expensive if brought from the refuge so we suggest bringing your own, but bring some extra cash if you want to eat here or grab a nice warm hot chocolate!

Expert Guide

• $200 - $300 (I highly recommend spending money on this specifically so that you can hire the most experienced and reliable guide who is certified with ASEGUIM)

Transport to park

• $20 (Bus from Quito to park, and car to Cotopaxi parking lot)

Equipment Rental

• $50 per person

Park Fee

• $10 per day (passport required)

Combined Packages

Many tour companies offer a variety of packages which include multi-day hikes, hotels pre and post, and even combine climbing Cotopaxi with a Chimborazo climb. These are of course more expensive but have a lot more on offer.

What Gear Do I Need?

Climbing Cotopaxi requires crampons and an ice-axe.  These are your most important pieces of equipment for this climb. Tour operators may provide specialized equipment like crampons, but you are welcome to bring your own or rent equipment.

Is Climbing Cotopaxi Dangerous?

Cotopaxi is an active volcano. In 2017, Cotopaxi was reopened following an eruption in 2015. There is a warning system installed throughout the park to alert visitors of any eruptive activity. If you hear the alarm sound continuously, leave the park immediately. Despite it being an active volcano, Cotopaxi is relatively safe to climb and is considered the worlds most monitored volcano!

The altitude can be the downfall of many climbers on Cotopaxi. Only 72% of climbers have a successful summit and many climbers get altitude sickness. Should you feel any effects like headaches or nausea, please do not push yourself, and descend immediately. Altitude sickness should always be taken seriously.

How Can I Prepare For The High Altitude?

Training beforehand and hiking a few small peaks prior to Cotopaxi is also recommended to reduce the risk of developing altitude sickness. Good peaks to train on are Volcano Ruminñahui and Sincholahua also in Cotopaxi National Park.

Do I Need Travel Insurance?

Travel insurance is very important for all climbs at high altitude and you should definitely get insurance if you are planning on climbing Cotopaxi. Make sure your insurance covers high altitude treks or mountaineering specifically above 5,800m and all medical emergencies.

See our detailed guide to South American mountain ranges. Or check out our European country hiking guides below.